NYC Fall Fashion Week: Sue Stemp

Sue Stemp debuted her first fall line at The Players Club at Gramercy Park. Instead of a traditional runway formation, the models stopped along the walk to pose, some passing others, while some even strutted as couples. This created some overall confusion for the audience, especially as the runway became more crowded, but was refreshing in its informality.

Stemp’s designs were heavily lingerie-inspired, which, depending on execution, came across as either whimsical or flimsy. The best ensembles were those that balanced these feminine, light items with sharply tailored, weightier pieces: the Razzle Skirt in pin-up stripe silk with waistcoat bustier and lounge jacket in marshmallow tailored moleskin (left); the diamond tank in kohl twilight beading on chiffon and culottes in kohl wool suiting(center); and the hoodie jacket in kohl lady driver wool coating, cami knickers in marshmallow broderie anglaise on tulle and tie top in kohl/marshmallow “Cherry /Piano” print on silk jersey(right).

Stemp’s “signature” dresses were less impressive. The fabric was so light that they often looked unfinished, and the prints did not add enough depth to create sophistication. They looked more like dressing gowns than evening wear, and even in the era of causal-cool they did not surmount this barrier.

-Ali

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