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24th Feb 2006

Milan Fashion Week: Marni

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The Marni show demonstrates how crucial the hair and makeup can be to the overall presentation of the designs. The darkened eyes and nude lips make the models look like either heroin junkies or zombies (which is more or less the same thing). The aura of drabness emanating from the models unfairly influences the impression of the collection. With the exception of a few overly boxy or baggy pieces, the collection is a successful modern interpretation of minimalist style with Marni’s signature artistic finesse.

Collection Highlights

This (below, left) dress strips down the kimono style to its bare essentials: a single color (kimonos are traditionally designed with very intricate prints), simple fabric (jersey instead of silk), with a modern accessory for a contemporary touch (a belt instead of an obi). This (below, right) blouse is a softened, more feminine approach to the turtleneck: delicate fabric instead of a woven knit as well as shortened sleeves and elongated length.

The distinct necklaces are modern and eye-catching in their pop art inspired design.

Noticeably absent from Marni was the presence of fur on the majority of models (Marni’s brand is practically built on fur). Though there were a few fur pieces, the pelts were largely relegated to trim. Both of the below designs are well-executed layering of coats and blouses with slouchy pants. But wearing Birkenstock-type sandals with socks is never, ever acceptable—not at the runway, grocery store, or anywhere else.

-Ali

Posted by Ali @ 3:37 pm

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