It seems as though Gucci and Versace traded places for the 2006 Milan Fall Fashion Week. Both presented collections based on the central guiding principle of glam, but with strikingly different results.

Gucci’s glam was like a bad trip to the kitschiest, most overdone parts of the disco scene of the 1970s. The colors scheme was loud and the forms of the clothing were loose and exaggerated. There has been a lot of buzz that Gucci is trying to reclaim its hold on sex appeal: but these designs seemed tailored for a woman desperate for attention, not one who commands it. What is most disappointing is that Gucci did not reinterpret the era in any significant way.

Meanwhile, Versace epitomized true modern glam with its (comparative) restraint. The icy monochrome color palette subdued the day and eveningwear while also providing glamorous elegance. The intricate construction of folds and pleats provided such depth to the clothing that further glitter and glitz were unnecessary.

The daywear featured plush military-style coats and furs. The dominant colors were shades of blue, slate, black and grey.

The short dresses are versatile as either day or eveningwear. They shared a similar eye-line focused at the waist, with the details of the garments emanating from this central place.

The evening dresses literally fluttered across the floor as the models walked the runway, with slits strategically placed to give the dresses movement and grace. While the silhouettes seem simple, each dress has its own complex composition that, coupled with the striking colors, creates a distinctive form. In the age where casual-cool dominates the fashion landscape, the ability to create eveningwear that is understated and effortless, but also distinctly glamorous and luxurious, capturing the essence of modern European fashion.

-Ali

During my time away from Vintageista, I still had a chance to see what is “on” in the vintage fashion scene. Here are the top 3 picks of the week.

www.Anti-Factory.com

This site has the most adorable and original designs in sweaters and tops out there. Stephanie Syjuco makes all the merchandise by hand with vintage recycled wool, angora, cashmere, jersey, and other fabrics.

www.Poshvintage.com

This site is really for the vintage fashion aficionado. With everything from day/evening dresses to menswear to several private label links — POSH Urban, POSH Reconstructed, POSH Designer, POSH Nouveau, POSH Gift Shop, POSH Lingerie, and POSH House. Whew, that’s a lot of looking, but some things are just worth searching for.

www.Vintagetextile.com

For anyone who considers themselves a true arbiter of vintage style, this site is right up your alley. Though the price range is very much on the expensive side, you can just browse through the site to get a true appreciate of fashion past or if the tax refund came a bit early…there is nothing wrong with treating yourself. This site sells everything from early pieces (i.e. 1770) to pieces from the mid 1980s. Such a range of vintage fabulousness. My favorite link: Treasure Hunt ( you can find some really unique, one-of-a-kind items)

I am Fashion is hosting this week’s Carnivale of Couture with this topic:
“Surprise darling! You have just won the lottery! How will you, the super fabulous fashionable blogger, spend your US$10m winnings? Tell us all about your money-spending plan!”

Because this is fantasy, I am going to limit myself to selfish purchases (which I wouldn’t do in real life) and I will refrain from boring you with practical decisions like investing, etc.

First, I would become a full-time writer, and would need a fabulous writing studio overlooking Central Park or the Hudson (maybe DUMBO with a view of Manhattan), and an even more fabulous luxury apartment (dog-friendly) in SoHo or West Village (maybe Meatpacking). I would need clothing to fit my writing lifestyle and studio, which menas comfortable chic: mostly Rock and Republic Jeans with YaYa sweaters and tops.

Next, I would need fabulous apartments/homes/villas in New York, Paris, Rome, Cape Town and New Zealand, because with all the fabulous clothing I would buy (coming up next), I would need wonderful places and occasions for which I could wear it.

I would shop my favorite designers for all my moods and situations: Dior for when I want to feel feminine and completely gorgeous, Jay McCarroll when I want to be edgy and fierce, Stella McCartney for when I want to be young, hip and polished, Donna Karan and Bill Blass when I am negotiating book deals and handling other business decisions, Heatherette when I want to be completely outside of myself, Michael Kors when I am jet-setting or grocery shopping, Temperly London when I want to be completely irresistible in an understated kind of way.

I would shop almost exclusively at Jimmy Choo for my shoes, but would collect handbags from everywhere: Gucci, Dior, Kooba, Chloe, Prada (no nylon), Luella, Marc Jacobs, and many more.

But I wouldn’t purchase all my clothing at once—I would still build a wardrobe piece by piece, and I would live out my fantasy of going to fashion shows, not just to write about them, but to shop. I would love to be able to see something on the runway, put a star by it on my program not just because I love it but because I will make it mine.

Also, I would become the patron of an emerging designer who I think has the potential to be huge: Alice Dobson, whose line is Sofada.

And I would buy loads of evening dresses and host charity balls (see, a selfless part) just for an excuse to wear them.

I would also write a screenplay for a film where fashion is not central to the story, but gives the film a lot of visual depth, hire someone like Alexander Payne (who directed Sideways) to direct it, finance it myself (that makes me the Producer) and give myself sort of supporting role in it.

And, I can’t resist, I would become an Angelina Jolie – fighting for noble causes and keeping myself grounded with humanitarian work (in the fashion week off-season).

What a great topic – it’s so much fun to fantasize!

-Ali

Torino may just be a short train ride from Milan, but the fashion on display at the Olympics is a completely different world. Figure skating costumes often look like hand-me-downs from the showgirls of seedy Las Vegas hotels. But in the women’s long program, there were some costumes that deserved the gold and silver (and happened to be on the women who earned them)…

The gold medalist was Shizuka Arakawa, and her costume was dazzling. Representing Japan on the ice, she chose a costume grounded in Japanese performing arts: the kimono, with alterations that reduced its fundamental components to make it suitable for figure skating: the sleeves were slightly flared, the shortened skirt twirled, and an obi-like waistband to give the outfit form. Most importantly, from the competition perspective, the costume enhanced her form during jumps and spins.

Sasha Cohen’s outfit also defied the figure skating curse. The plush red velvet with gold embroidery was baroque in style but also showed crucial restraint. The costume was tasteful and looked gorgeous on her.

Others were less glamorous:

Irina Slutskaya’s costume illustrates the more common figure skating costume: flashy and unflattering, even distracting. I cheered for Irina anyway, because she has such a fabulous story.

Emily Hughes’ outfit just seemed so “the little sister” to me, just a leotard with some sequined trim, and tights that were about three shades too dark for her legs, making her look unbalanced.

Couples skating is unequivocally the ninth circle of fashion hell.






-Ali

The Marni show demonstrates how crucial the hair and makeup can be to the overall presentation of the designs. The darkened eyes and nude lips make the models look like either heroin junkies or zombies (which is more or less the same thing). The aura of drabness emanating from the models unfairly influences the impression of the collection. With the exception of a few overly boxy or baggy pieces, the collection is a successful modern interpretation of minimalist style with Marni’s signature artistic finesse.

Collection Highlights

This (below, left) dress strips down the kimono style to its bare essentials: a single color (kimonos are traditionally designed with very intricate prints), simple fabric (jersey instead of silk), with a modern accessory for a contemporary touch (a belt instead of an obi). This (below, right) blouse is a softened, more feminine approach to the turtleneck: delicate fabric instead of a woven knit as well as shortened sleeves and elongated length.

The distinct necklaces are modern and eye-catching in their pop art inspired design.

Noticeably absent from Marni was the presence of fur on the majority of models (Marni’s brand is practically built on fur). Though there were a few fur pieces, the pelts were largely relegated to trim. Both of the below designs are well-executed layering of coats and blouses with slouchy pants. But wearing Birkenstock-type sandals with socks is never, ever acceptable—not at the runway, grocery store, or anywhere else.

-Ali