Archive for May, 2006
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The Puma-McQueen Circle Jerk
We love it when our favorite designers collaborate with our favorite street brands. Thus, a partnership between Alexander McQueen and Puma seemed like a match made in hipster chic heaven–both are edgy and epitomize urban individualist style. Glancing over the shoes, they are a fantastic fusion of McQueen and Puma, retaining both McQueen’s fierce, forceful designs and Puma’s hip, causal style. But, the touted concept of the collection, which is vainglorious even by fashion industry standards, casts a shadow over the otherwise innovative collaboration.
McQueen’s self promotion almost reaches the nausea-inducing David Blaine level. First, the concept of the collection is based around the “ManCatâ€â€”supposedly McQueen’s own body (since not just any bloke will do) merged with a Puma.
Above is the image of what is supposedly Alexander McQueen’s half of the ManCat’s genetic composition. Yeah, right. Alexander McQueen has suddenly transformed into the chiseled figure of Michelangelo’s sculptures incarnate. May I remind you of what Alexander McQueen actually looks like:

I’d be willing to give a pass on that, if it weren’t for the most egregious, self-indulgent aspect of the campaign: “The impression of Alexander McQueen’s own foot has been suspended in a transparent rubber outsole for one of the iconic styles of the collection.â€
This is based on the commercial assumption that the imprint of McQueen’s own foot on the sole of a shoe would make it more appealing. It’s creepy, in poor taste, and assumes a lot (like, that anyone beyond the upper echelons of haute society could identify who Alexander McQueen is) about the average Joe who just needs some footwear to kick around in on the weekends.
Brooklyn Fashion Week[end]
Brooklyn, the hippest borough in NY (Manhattan is so passé… or not), continues its cultivation of emerging artists by hosting its first ever fashion week[end].
Zulema Griffin is headlining the event (read Papierdoll’s interview with her to see she isn’t who you think she is), which is being held at the Empire Fulton Ferry Tobacco Warehouse in DUMBO (a.k.a. center of the earth for emerging artists).
Considering a resourceful fashion devotee could sneak into the tents at Bryant Park (oops, did I say that?), I imagine it wouldn’t be difficult to get into a show in Brooklyn, even if you just drop by. If you’ve never been to a runway show and happen to be in the New York metro area this weekend, I highly recommend you attend. Just remember the ultimate rule of fashion week: the show will start at least half an hour late. Details can be found at BKFashionWkend.
Reluctantly Becoming an Anglomaniac
I remember my year in London (2004) as one consisting of bland food, depressing weather, and uninspired culture (note: London’s culture is different than British culture−in London the British culture is generally diluted by American-wannabeism). Of course, London is a money vacuum, and my experience would have been dramatically different if I hadn’t been a penny-pinching college student (and wasn’t take a full course load−including Econometrics−at the LSE, god, what was I thinking?!).
So, I am a hard sell on the fashion industry’s current British obsession. Sure, I am a big fan of many British designers (Stella McCartney, Luella Bartley, Alice Temperley), and I love many aspects of British culture (the original Office, though the American version is brilliantly adopted to our culture; British musicians, especially Elton John, as I have a thing for gay men; British sarcasm/wit, which is self-explanatory), but when globalization has given so many other non-Western cultures heightened visibility, why retreat to the Old World?


Well, if anyone can infect me with a bit of this Brit-obsession, it would be the Met (I’m an art person, hence the love of fashion). First, I opened my “ever getting closer to full-blown commercialism with Keira Knightly posed in a typical headshot cover†May issue of Vogue to a remarkably well-executed and highly artistic photo editorial (you can view some of it online, it is much better in print–see Vogue, I’m pedaling subscriptions for you, please hire me) of models in the costumes from the Met’s exhibition (why, Vogue, do you bury such amazing content under the veneer of a girl next door celeb on the cover?). This got me itching, especially John Galliano’s Princess Lucretia designs (above, second pic) and Alexander McQueen’s mini-pannier from his 2006 Chess collection (below, far left).

Then, while browsing the pictures of the Gala on Style.com (Vogue-associated), I stumbled across pictures of the actual Anglomania exhibition, which is much more interesting than the self-promoting clusterfuck of celebrities and designers toothily posing for the camera. While the photos are taken in muted lighting and from restricted angles, they nonetheless have piqued my appetite for this feast of fashion delectables.
Unsurprisingly, my favorites (from the photos) are those found in the “Francomania†section of the collection, a take on British designers who adopted the stylings of French couture into their own creations.

Glad I don’t have to drag that around all day.

So this is where Alice Temperley gets her inspiration.

Galliano’s dress looked much more vibrant in the Vogue spread… is the lighting in the Met that bad and the space that small? I’ll judge in person.

Apparently, the Lansdowne Room of the exhibition magically transports people to Chelsea.
The sheer decadence of these couture concoctions is worth a visit to the exhibit, which is now going to take up my upcoming Saturday afternoon. I’ll report back, if I do make it uptown and am able to drag my boyfriend along (so that someone else can play the role of the reluctant).
May Issue of Papierdoll and Look
Our 1 year anniversary has come and is in full swing. In this month’s issue, we look at Halston, seven ways to feel more alive for the spring, we interview hair stylist Dennis Bailey on the top trends for spring, and there’s much more.
Over on the Look side of things, we look at how gravity affects photography from different angles with photographer Francesca Tallone’s The New Angular and we explore fall fashions with Patrick D. Wade’s Transitions. We will also be announcing the winners from the 1 year anniversary contest in a couple of days. We also launched the Look photography blog this month. Updated throughout the week, you’ll find the best work from our photographers. It’s located here: http://look.papierdoll.net/blog/
Photographer Michael Maler shot the cover and the two shoots showing what we want for the summer season (btw, recording artist Leah Rennee is the model on the cover, if you’ve never heard of her, trust us…you will.)
Special thanks to Nharlem and Saada for providing the clothes. Check them out now:
Nharlem www.nharlemny.com
Saada www.saadanyc.com
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Enjoy this month’s issue of Papierdoll.
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Papierdoll September 2008 Foto Story
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photography Anne-Marie Michel
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