14th Jun 2006
Reader Mail: What’s your gripe with Gryson?
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Received this email via the contact form, referring to last Thursday’s promotional email digest, in which I quipped about Bergdorf Goodman’s announcement of the Gryson bag collection, “Sew some leather together, add a buckle and all of a sudden it’s an “It†bag?â€:
“What is your problem with gryson bags? These bags are the best quality-handmade in Italy. I have already preordered at Bergdorfgoodman.com.
You obviously don’t know the Joy Gryson is the famous accessories designer from Marc Jacobs.
I guess your too busy praising played out Kooba and Goldenbleu to know who’ s coming up in handbags.â€
Whoa there, this must be from a Gryson aficionado, PR type, or Marc Jacobs worshipper (I’m thinking a PR type who Googled “Gryson bag†to see the press it is getting, considering the plug for Bergdorf, and the additional quality/handmade info). Either way, she is a reader, and I feel the need to respond publicly, in case anyone else has the same thoughts. Besides, this first-time collection warrants more than a flippant one-liner.
First, my zing was less directed at Gryson than at the marketing folks over at Bergdorf Goodman. They sent out their Gryson bag email alert with the subject line: “Gryson: Introducing the new must-have bags,†which set me off on the entire overuse of the terms “must-have†and “It†bag. My barb was mostly directed at the way everyone now throws around those terms, especially when it comes to handbags, and frankly, it is a huge turn-off to the fashion savvy set. No one wants to own the bag that is going to be knocked-off to death in three months.
But let’s focus on the collection itself. When I first looked over the Gryson collection, I was rather underwhelmed. Sure, Joy Gryson earned her chops as the former director of design and development for Marc Jacobs handbags, but I would like to point out that a) Marc Jacobs is not god (and thus working for his fashion house does not confer demigod status), and b) if evaluation of current work were based on past reputation, we’d all just be consuming the same tired labels (which one could argue occurs all the time in fashion editorial and that is why some talent is completely overblown while other talent is seriously overlooked)—I’m not going to write a glowing review just because of “who so-and-so is.â€
That said, when I looked over the collection, I anticipated that, when unfettered by the confines of a fashion house, Gryson would produce something more original and add some sort of signature touch to differentiate her line. Instead, the bags felt like a partial regurgitation of what we’ve already seen:
Gryson.
Chloe.
Still, Gryson bags are indeed well-made, with straightforward style that is practical and classy. It’s a great choice if you want something that is under the radar of the mass populace. The Bag Snob predicts they will be sold out by before Labor Day.
Finally, if you read my post on Goldenbleu, it is clearly a critique, not a plug. I stand by Kooba—that bag is gorgeous and the Sienna bag itself is ecstasy, and while perhaps a bit overplayed, Kooba is definitely not as overexposed as Chloe or Balenciaga (which have sadly become so diluted by celeb-induced exuberance that their true beauty has been overshadowed).
Still, thanks for reading and responding, we always want our readers to keep us honest, and call us out on our shit. Otherwise we’d be able to get away with anything, because of “who we are”… wait, no, that only works for the glossies.
Posted by Ali @ 5:33 am
June 14th, 2006 at 6:37 am
Thank you for this piece — it’s refreshing to see someone unpacking the tedious, overhyped “It Bag” trend, especially in its more derivative regards.
June 17th, 2006 at 2:10 pm
Hi
I am thrilled about GRYSON handbags. As a web store who can easily sell $ 2,3 and 4 thousand dollar handbags, it is refreshing find something to get excited about. I know that this is going to be a huge line from a retail point, and there are not enough well made , statement bags, if you will, out there for under $1,000.00 So what makes Chloe so great? NOTHING! And the motorcycle bag that is horrible, I could make a better bag.
In a world of complete over indulgence,where wanting to know just how many Birkins are in the closet untouched it is great to see a line like this come along.Customers are excited about these bags. So am I!
I never liked Marc Jacobs bags. They are ugly, almost all of them, but the world according to Marc is here to stay. I hope Joy Gryson can take the thunder with her.
Sari Brown
LuxCouture
June 19th, 2006 at 6:23 am
I love the Gryson bag. Just so outstanding style.
April 15th, 2007 at 4:38 am
If it is this type of look, then please also check out the new contemporary collection at Maxwell Scott. This is a new range for 2007, and shows the timeless appeal of premium Italian leather. We have designed fashionable styles and fused durability with indulgent finery.
Please excuse the marteting hype, but I do honestly feel these bags are revelant to this post.