New York Fashion Week Spring 2007: Terexov

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Alexander Terekhov’s Spring 2007 collection featured a range of day and evening designs that all seemed to be a permutation of one epitomical dress: collared v-neck, tied front, and elegant draping. Terekhov has thus cultivated a signature look, a closet fallback for a woman who never wants to utter the age-old complaint, “I have nothing to wear”—she could always reach for her Terexov. This makes Terexov marketable, wearable and still distinctive.

Yet the collection seemed to reference itself heavily—there were two discernible déjà vu moments in which it seemed as though the same dress was being walked twice down the runway on two different models. It appeared as though he used the same dressmaking patterns for the evening gowns as he had for the daywear—he simply changed the fabric from jersey to satin. The dresses wore much better as daytime creations—the structure of the design was lost in the satin, and with the collars and deep v-necks, sometimes came too close to the resemblance of a dressing robe.

The similarities between dresses could have seemed uninspired, yet the central archetype was strong enough to carry the collection, and there were enough original details—twisted straps to create a roping effect, an off-the-shoulder neckline that plunged toward backlessness—to provide differentiation.

To see Terekhov in the flesh was a striking reminder of his youth, and we’re eager to see how his work will mature.

ALI MANNING

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