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It’s not often to see the themes of patriotism, violence and sexuality explored together, much less through swimwear, accessories and evening gowns. But Jeremy Scott, who is deft at crafting social commentary through a runway show, skillfully examined these themes with a message that is biting, but leaves its mark without piercing the skin.
While previous collections took a bit more reading into for full appreciation of the message, the intent of each piece in this collection was obvious, but that didn’t detract from the effect. The prints were a juxtaposition of childish icons and militaristic symbols: a CareBear holding a rifle printed on a knit sweaterdress, reflective Mickey Mouse ears adorned the top of a helmet, and bullets in the shape of crayons created a printed trim on the bottom of a tank top. Jeremy thus continues to play on our preconceptions of what is “adult,†highlighting the childishness that underlines materialism (fall ’06) and militarism (spring ’07).
Jeremy’s men’s collection focused primarily on the friction/overlap between the machismo embraced by both gay culture and the military—it wasn’t clear if a cargo vest worn over bare skin belonged in a gay club or the barracks (probably both). A brawny model in an army green Speedo bathing suit with “ United States of America †printed on the buttocks wore combat boots and oversized gold dog tags that read “Top Secret,†mocking the military’s “don’t ask, don’t tell†policy, even calling it out as hypocritical.
Jeremy is the most playful, as well as the most overt when it comes to his evening wear: a strapless dress had Mount Rushmore across the chest, the capitol building served as dual breast cups on another, and whirling airplane propellers on the ends breast cones were the only ornamentation on a black satin v-neck dress. A daring upstart would make a splash and a scene by wearing one of these to the next White House Correspondents Association dinner.
When he pulled back just a little, his designs were most striking in their message—a balloon hemmed dress with barbed wire print was just the right juxtaposition of the threatening danger evoked by the jagged metal print and the welcoming calm of the dress’ pillow-like form.
ALI MANNING