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Archive for September, 2006

26th Sep 2006

Best Bets

New York Magazine Best Bets
I’m more than a little stoked for this shopping event being held by New York Mag. 15 to 65% off retail items are an absolute must when I am working on a shoe string budget for fashion and pretty much everything else. I also won’t feel so selfish knowing that a portion of the proceeds go to the fund for Public Schools.

Here’s a taste of some of the names in fashion being featured: Armand Diradourian, Hyde, Lacoste, Lilla P, Roberta Freymann
Sean. There will also be top accessory, beauty, home and kids brands featured. You’re welcome.

Details:

When: Tuesday October 3, 2006
Where: The Altman Building, 135 West 18th Street

Click here for more info and tickets

Posted in Everything, events | No Comments »

25th Sep 2006

London Fashion Week: Quick and Dirty

As I look for challenges within my writing career, the powers that be here at Papierdoll are never in short supply. Down from the mountain it came: London Fashion week: on a budget and in a nutshell. Since this encompasses a whole week’s work in one blog entry, I decided to challenge myself, limiting my analysis to a brief descript or one word!

So pour yourself a spot of tea, put on the Petshop Boys, and grab a map of the tube… London here we bloody come!

Monday:


Noir: classic structure featuring crisp white fabrics as the standout


Peter Jensen: Safari, old Banana catalog


Gharani Strok: hated at first sight, but the coolness had me reconsidering… made me wish I was a spy on the coast of a Riviera


John Rocha: Romantic Grunge!

Tuesday:

Unconditional: a line for men and women, the colors were muted and the genre was punk….that is unconditional


Ben De Lsi: casually sensual


Preen by Thorton Bregazzi: the appearance seemingly misshapes curves of the female body, but the math of the design compliments… a little paradoxical


Gareth Pugh: In a word: Highlight… scroll down to the end of the recap for more…

Wednesday:


Biba: Kat Hepburn cool


Jasper Conran: BEAUTIFUL


Christopher Kane: the mini…well, at least Paris has something to wear


Giles: chain me up in shackles

Thursday:


Ashley Isham: for the bitch you love or love to hate… really… where did she get those heels?

Fashion Fringe (a.k.a. the “Fab Four Designers”):


Antonio Santana: comfortable


6 7/8 (six and seven eighths): Cruella de Vil


Stephen Harper: everything I wish would fit my bum


Gavin Douglas: oh, the drama


Nicole Farhi: single handily trying to bring back the polka dot

And there you have it, a week’s synopsis, quick and dirty.

If you would like to see it in pictures, head over to www.londonfashionweek.co.uk, and compare for yourself.

In conclusion, I would like to back track to Gareth Pugh: Every once in a great while, someone creates something that is more than just fashion–it is the dream of fashion. Gareth achieved this through checkered black and white dresses and the dramatics of black masked faces. A transformer-type dress cut from quilted patent leather created a space-like silhouette. The black and white mini was made from inflatable plastic, like the floats you wore as a child. All of these designs barreled down a floating catwalk, created when air was pumped through a long white cloth. Gareth Pugh’s line makes any narrator seem insane–it truly must be seen with your own eyes. It could have been a mockery, warning those who take all of this too seriously. Maybe it was the brilliant vision of one madman. In the end I took it as an inspiration, and a reminder of what fashion, the look, and the “it,” is all about.

Posted in Everything | No Comments »

22nd Sep 2006

New York Fashion Week Spring 2007 Wrap-Up: Review Roundups and Resources

Lesley at FashionTribes has made a valiant effort of rounding up the blogger reviews of New York’s Spring 2007 Fashion Week. Fashion blogs and e-zines offer two things that the mainstream media often lacks: 1) coverage and critique of up and coming and lesser known designers, 2) refreshing honesty about the shows. Read reviews that you won’t find anywhere else.

As for runway eye candy, we love our own galleries, but for the shows that we didn’t cover, check out New York Magazine. Not only do they have photos for all the major shows, they also allow you to create a personal album so that you can save your favorite runway looks for future reference… you can share albums and browse Tim Gunn’s (where is the love for Jay McCarroll?!) or Ali Manning’s (hey, that’s me!) favorite runway looks.

New York Magazine also has a “cheat sheet” which features reviews from a mix on online e-zines (Papierdoll included!) and glossy websties like Style.com.

Posted in Everything | No Comments »

21st Sep 2006

Carnivale of Couture: Favorite spring 2007 trend

This week’s Carnivale of Couture is hosted by Omiru, and it is the perfect topic for post-fashion week reflecting:

What’s your favorite fashion trend from the Spring 2007 runway?

Pleating!


(Michon Schur… pleating applied to the neckline for volume)

I’ve always associated pleats with unflattering, fusty country club trousers or Catholic schoolgirl uniforms, but after Spring 2007 fashion week, I’ve seen all the potential that pleats have to offer. They can give just the right amount of swing to a skirt, flair to a silhoutte, or definition to a bodice.


Dragana Ognjenovic applied pleats to everything, heightening the sophistication of her designs through intricate pleating, and being playful in how she applied them.


Jason Wu gave body and form to his chiffon dresses with pleated waistlines.


Costello Tagliapietra, who’ve made a name for themselves with their draping, used pleats to give added depth to the busts and waistlines of their dresses (applied here to the bodice of a strapless dress).

Pleats make a great trend because they can be applied so diversely and serve many different functions for various styles of clothing–so it’s less likely that the trend will become tiring or overdone.

UPDATE: The entire Carnivale has been posted at Omiru.

Posted in Everything | 2 Comments »

20th Sep 2006

New York Fashion Week Spring 2007 Wrap-Up: You know you’re in it for the swag

So, another fashion week, another swag post. In keeping with the tradition of spring being the lesser important of the fashion weeks, the swag count this cycle was a little less than last time (at least, we hope that’s because of the seasonality), and the press bag was much less exciting than last season (what was up with the sexual stimulation lotion in this year’s bag?). Still, our (well, my) estimated swag grab is just above $450, making all that waiting in line worth while.

    How to Score Swag…

If you are just in it for the swag (or if the swag will be the deciding factor in which shows you attend), here’s the lowdown on picking the shows where you’ll score the best goods:

Find out who is sponsoring the show

  • Cosmetics companies are sure to give out some goodies (lipgloss is always a fave) and hair care companies love to give out whole caches of products; avoid shows where the sponsors don’t make items that can be wrapped in tissue paper—while I’m sure the Greek tourism board made generous sponsors for Vlassis Holevas, all they gave to the crowd was a booklet on Greek food (not even with recipes!) and a promotional DVD of making your own myth in Greece
  • Besides show sponsors, find out if a designer is coming out with a new fragrance line or accessories line—chances are they’ll give out some samples (or a whole bottle, as Nanette Lepore did last February) to promote the new merch
  • Smaller names=bigger gift bags

  • As a general rule, smaller designers give out better stuff to lure more people to the shows, this is probably a function of space: the smaller the space and fewer the guests, the easier it is to provide swag for all, and the that the PR firms who represent these designers are usually smaller shops who aren’t overstretched and can deliver some quality goods
  • Rodebjer (repped by W29 Showroom), whose offsite show was held a day before fashion week even began, gave away the best bag we got (see below for contents)
  • Smaller shows are much more likely to have bags for everyone, not just the first two rows
  • Park your ass in a seat

  • You can’t get a gift bag if you are standing in the back—if you haven’t been assigned a seat, there are always free seats when a show starts, just scope out a spot next to the aisle and be ready to grab your seat when the PR types give the okay
  • Leftovers are for the taking, but please have some swag dignity

  • If someone abandons their gift bag after the show, might as well take it for yourself (someone will)—but please, only do so if you don’t already have a bag, and do it with a bit of discretion—and never, ever take a bag on a seat that is yet to be claimed (I’ve had my bag swiped before getting to my seat, and it’s just. not. cool.)
  • Celebs and celebutantes generally don’t take their gift bags with them (it’s beneath them or something), so get it for yourself—when someone else swiped my bag at Michon Schur (again, so. not. cool.), I picked up Mischa Barton’s orphaned bag with a Nars lipgloss set
  • So, what’s in our swag bag?

  • Rodebjer: scarf, scented candle, MAC lipglosses and eyeshadow, glass blown bathing suit (pencil holder?) sculpture from Swedish artist
  • Nicole Miller: spring scarf in Mayan print
  • Mary Ping: free breakfast—might not be swag to some, but after a hectic night of shows, definitely a treat!
  • Heatherette: CD of the new Kelis single (she walked in the show), 50% off certificate for a facial/body treatment at Manhattan spa
  • Atil Kotuglu: porcelain hand painted plate from Turkish Artist
  • Jason Wu: Brizo necklace
  • Dragana Ognevovic: handbag bag (for packing, storing handbags)
  • Zac Posen: MAC lipglosses, Darphin Paris anti-aging creams and Artec Textureline hair gel
  • Temperly London: scented candle
  • Michon Schur: Nars lipgloss set of three
  • Jay McCarroll: Aveda large samples (shampoo, conditioner, body wash) in Rosemary Mint (my fave), Nars lipgloss
  • Jeremy Scott: Rusk professional collection hair care set with six gels/sprays/mousses/etc
  • Bill Blass: pencil (and a swirly paper clip)… I haven’t included other shows where the swag was lame, but thought this was kinda funny
  • Also… lots of Altoid gum and mints, gourmet popcorn and several nail polishes from People’s Revolution shows… it was pretty funny to see people at these shows scooping up extra bags just to realize all they got was popcorn and a Budweiser pamphlet.

    And that is how we do it.

    ALI MANNING

    Posted in Everything | No Comments »

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    On Papierdoll




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    Considering the now ubiquitous trend of disposable fashion where all that seems to matter is a cute factor, Thomas Voorn's intellectual take on clothing is not only refreshing, but enlightening. Voorn's fascination with clothing calls to mind an anthropologist intrigued with skeletal remains, a sociologist... [Go]








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