“But their shoes are so ugly,” said an editor at Papierdoll. Not any more apparently. I looked at the news of Patricia Fields coming to Payless in two ways coincidentally.

a. The trickle of high end designers creating for big box retailers and certain speciality retailers (H&M/Payless) is starting to turn into a flood. I see it as similar to a high brow actor cashing in on a movie that appeals to the masses.

b. I wonder - and I guess this is an open question - if designing for these retailers diminishes the designer’s standing in regards to the upper crust, high end customers, aspirational buyers? I still covet Stella McCartney’s ENTIRE line after the H&M showing. I may actually covet it more as a result of her selling at H&M.

I read Sarah Mower’s review of Comme des Garcons fall showing at Paris fashion week and almost took nothing away from it. I couldn’t understand if she liked the show, if she didn’t, if there was anything worth having. For example, she says:

“So it was with the rest of the show, in which she patched zones of synthetics onto velvet or menswear jackets and overlaid shine on matte—nothing very girlish about that. Nevertheless, those elements—natural/unnatural texture contrasts and Kawakubo’s fresh and lovely combinations of red, pink, and mauve—succeeded in landing this resolute outsider’s collection within the general conversations fashion is having with itself this Fall”

???

Then I looked at the photos and I totally understand where Mower is coming from, I think. While I love the fantastical slash whimsical in fashion, sometimes there’s that insurmountable gap between getting it. The simplest thing I could say about the line is that I can find the exact same fashion at a local discount store. Checkout photos 3, 19, 29 to illustrate.

See her review here | See the photos here

Despite the snow, the spring looks commence.

The Holly Go Lightly. From emerging designer Kate and Kass. See the Papierdoll interview here.
For more info on Kate and Kass go here.

Well, the man responsible for making us all want distressed leather jackets is at it again. Rick Owens’ f/w 2007 collection came chock full of dark colors, textured fabrics and the dreary coolness that enamours the label. We love psycho-chic as much as the next girl, but styling was a bit out there. Of course, this is Paris, so maybe we’re just being uptight.

Collars dominated a collection of heavy wraps and coats. Owens displayed an intense knowledge of how to make drab interesting, something he’s able to reinvent season after season. While the footwear was a little much (even for us), the collection in seperates remained wearable and had function on its side. Sherpa coats were key, with nipped waists and and clever painted-on-slim sleeves. Drapey skirts that hit under the knee balanced the perpetually exaggerated collars that are perfect for keeping us warm as the insanity of global warming brings severely cold temperatures. A muted grey-olive, stark white, and good ol’ black were the palette and while one may imagine that to be boring, it was anything but.

Leather was kept interesting with draping, and rolling hems with curly, soft sherpa peeking out. The overall message? Keep it comfortable, keep it under-the-radar and as usual with Owens, keep it dark. For others the trend may come and go, but no one can construct it quite like him.

SAMANTHA CABRERA

It’s not like I didn’t see this coming. I fear for the future of Banana as well. Walked in yesterday and said to myself, “where are all the clothes I used to want?” And though I wasn’t Forth and Towne’s target customer, you have to wonder if there will be a Gap in the coming years with all the bad news.