Click photo above for full gallery
As this is the third show Peter Ingwersen of Noir has shown in LFW, I figured the man to have hit his stride. But unfortunately it seemed that Noir had an obscure focus. Though well known for its laid back rock-chic style, Noir lacked the cohesiveness, seen in previous collections. Cropped jodhpurs in sheen fabrics detailed with rhinestone-like diamante, climbing up the leg, were well…a bit much. Then came the metallic pants, coats with belted waist (which have grown tiresome), sheer tops, cropped fur vests… and so forth.
In the past Ingwersen has shown a great deal of confidence in design. This season, I can’t figure out whether he lost that confidence or was bitten by the ‘overeager’ bug, and caught a case of ‘too many ideasâ€. Either way, the show went from ladies who lunch to women with weapons, as pretty lace and military-inspired ensembles fought against each other. Then just when one thought the battle turned to a truce Lily Cole appears in a sweeping gold lame gown and plunging neckline, which came from left field. The dress seemed to come straight off of Michelle Pfeiffer’s svelte body in the movie Scarface. Great dress, bad timing.
There were a few highlights: crisp oxford shirts, cream coats with wide lapels, leather evening coats cut to the highest degree and a solid colour scheme. But as a whole it was just too unfocused at this stage in the label’s lifeline.
MARQUITA HARRIS
3 Comments
I really liked this collection, a little off on why the reviewer didn’t get it. I can see putting several pieces together for the fall.
It seemed a bit up and down. There seemed to be ups and downs. I think I agree that there was a certain degree of consistency that was lacking.
Beats anything coming out of New York (minus Marc Jacobs)