When we think Cavalli, we think glamour. Sure, maybe it’s the trash factor side of glamour, but whoever said that was wrong? This week, Cavalli less than wowed us with his mix of Golden-Age-meets-Aspen look. While still sexy, the usual provocative glamour that embodies the house was nowhere to be found. Sure there were bondage-esque footwear and short hemlines, but in this age, that doesn’t say much for sex appeal. Models were swallowed by fabric and shoved into puffy concoctions worthy of Seinfeld. Colors ranged from heavy metallics to hard candy brights to the shot of soft blue, with black coming at you from nearly every angle. Jackets were boxy, dresses were billowing, and the menswear looked like something from outerspace (and not in that brilliant Lanvin S/S 2007 way).

The slight upside? The fur. No matter how immoral, no one does glam rock fur vests quite like Cavalli. Oh, the humanity of fashion!

SAMANTHA CABRERA

Just Cavalli photos (style.com)

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Hot pink, grey, camel and plum were Preen’s colour choices this season. Loosely tailored and fitted Islamic-like hoods added another level to preens systematic simplicity. Halter-neck mini dresses, coats with matching skirts and dresses in identical fabrics were also matched with sheer stockings. Typically, I am not a fan of what Heidi Klum on Project Runway dubbed: matchy, matchy. You know, red socks with a red sweater and red jeans…A childhood equipped with such, has made me resist it. However, Preen’s usage of texture, shape and minimalism was an appropriate platform for this execution.

This season Preen played with pleats (can you say that five times?) as well as creatively folding and manipulating fabric creating unique shapes for the body. Model Coco Rocha walked out in a whirlwind of horizontally pleated fabric folded into a halter dress. This looked divine, when paired with her always-frank expression. Then there were also the 80’s references (surprise, surprise) most often seen in the dresses and coats with wide shoulder pads (can we say Claude Montana?)

The biggest problem with this show was editing. There were nearly forty pieces in all and this easily could’ve been cut to half. Although I love Preen for their true blue sense of simplicity and attention to detail, one can only look so long at the same shapes and ideas. Needless to say the variations on their theme weren’t that… what’s the word I’m looking for? Varied.

MARQUITA HARRIS

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Somebody has an obsession with ‘lil girl’ shorts this season. The realistic side of me can’t help but laugh in wondering what Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker were thinking when they decided to create a collection incorporating ‘short shorts’ in a autumn/winter showing. Uh? However, the style connoisseur in me completely understood and applauded their bold and challenging concept. PPQ, the multi-tasked duo, whose little smock dresses has become somewhat of a cult classic with arbiters of style…everywhere, has done it again.

Colors rock and rolled the runway in black, electric blue, grey, gold, and pewter, with prints ranging from an understated plaid to Prince’s paisley. This collection gave the audience ensembles that ranged from the expected skinny pants to cleverly crafted dresses that could easily play a dual role in all seasons.

Standouts: Electric blue ‘Mac’ coat; tan paisley, puff sleeve mini dress; high waisted short shorts in grey with front pockets, paired with metallic tank and tweed-like short jacket and hot pink platforms, pewter color party mini dress; mustard yellow, silk, short jumpsuit, with purple handbag and black patent leather platforms; and the collection of just simple black dresses…you take your pick. Oh and the mittens with fur around the wrists (colors: black, electric blue, and fuchsia), can’t forget those.

Keep in the closet: The complete menswear. Not a fan. Not a fan at all.

TENISHA ANDERSON

Our editor Michelle calls me yesterday and says “I love Pringle.” The uninitiated would automatically reference the chip company. “No not Pringles, Pringle of Scotland, they just showed in Milan.” Oh.

Again, not to beat a dead horse, we don’t have photographers on the ground there so I immediately went to Style and checked out the slideshow. I stopped on the second image in the slide show and it’s obvious why. 3 days in and I can simply say that this is one of the strongest collections coming out of Milan fashion week. Pouf dresses aside (what’s with them anyway), I could count at least 7 pieces worth having.

Click here for the Style slideshow.

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What can I say about Mr. Gavin Douglas? I could say that even had he not won Fashion Fringe 2006, this exceptional talent would still have been found. But lets face it… I would be telling the biggest lie since the Susan Smith case. I honestly was expecting to witness the next Michael Kors, or Zac Posen, or Christopher Kane, the way the press and everyone was hyping up this collection. Don’t get me wrong, Mr. Douglas presented some aesthetically pleasing pieces, if you were not confused about what era it was coming from: the 80’s, the 40’s, the 40-80’s?

Standouts: Black satin silk blouse with canary yellow pencil skirt with fish scale detail vertically placed; black trousers with slanted front pockets; pewter leather trench dress coat; chartreuse mohair short jacket with bishop sleeves; and fuchsia, wool crepe dress with satin tie around the waist and a mandarin collar.

Keep in the closets: Red blouse with ruche detail in upper bodice and bow belted at the waist, paired with silk ruche, button front skirt. Now if this wasn’t the most oddliest paired ensemble I don’t know what was…oh yeah I do. The ‘Dynasty’ moment within the beige striped, shoulder padded, wrapped and side button dress. Can you say it with me…’Trying too hard shows desperation.’ Bird feather sleeves embellished a deep v-neck cream color blouse with matching leggings. I could go on, but I won’t, you can see what’s wrong. Papierdoll readers are not clueless to the dos and don’ts of fashion and style.

I’m normally not this hard of a critic. I’ve actually surprised myself this time, but this was an instance were ‘tough love’ has to prevail in order for Mr. Douglas to step it up next time. Now I’m sure Colin McDowell, if he decided to read outside his own critiques, would be appalled at what I have just said about this collection. Who gives a damn! This show was confusing as hell, and maybe I’m not a top fashion editor or journalist, or muse, or whatever. However, I have all my five senses and my sense of sight isn’t seeing great in this collection. Gavin, my brotha, when thinking out the box next time send a clearer focus of your collection that appeals to more than just the heavyweights in the audience, but the heavyweights that will be shopping it.

TENISHA ANDERSON