While not sure what to make of the Burberry Prorsum line this season (from seeing the photos and not being directly at the show), I can definitely say there’s a bit of intrigue. When I was younger (talking high school fashionista - I hate that word), Burberry was all I wanted to wear. It was the destinctive patchwork, the clean lines, the unmistakeable Burberry feel. So after reading Sarah Mower’s review on Style of the Prorsum line for Fall 2007 and seeing the photos, I’m thinking Bailey is demonstrating the evolution of Burberry right before our eyes. Witness the Prorsum collection from 2006 and fast forward to what he’s showing in Milan now.

The traditional English is turning to Rock. His words, not mine.

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The atmosphere of this show alone was enough distraction to show favour. Strippers with jewel-covered nipples, Candi Stanton’s You Got The Love , blaring through the speakers, corny smoke machines… What better way to start the day?

The 1980’s were definitely on the radar for this show. Sequence, sequence and more sequence, was what Indian born designer Ashish Gupta was into this season. The collection was tacky, sophisticated and street all at once. The staple seemed to be the dress and the attachment of massive silver and gold metallic bows. The flapper-inspired silhouette was a throwback to the 1920’s, which eased the bold fabrics and details of the 80’s. Also seen were quilted fabrics, long dramatic coats with embroidered flowers and rainbow-bright full skirts.

Though the best part was actually below the waist as Ashish layered black-laced hosiery over matte neon tights. This is a great look for those out there with a hidden love of neon tights (myself included), but don’t live the Club Kid life. There was also a tuxedo inspired puffer jacket, adding irony to the jazz-age femininity that ruled this runway. Love it or hate it? The man had a self-assured point-of-view.

MARQUITA HARRIS

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Turkish born designer, Bora Aksu is a devoted romantic. His love affair with nature often comes through in his colour choices: sand, olive, berry, oak, moss… If it’s apart of nature’s palette, he’ll use it. His collection this season was more like a continuous fairytale we already know the ending to: they live happily ever after. This is not necessarily a bad thing. Who doesn’t love a happy ending? And who doesn’t have respect for a designer with a style so clear, you know what’s being designed before it appears on the runway? Buyers love this I’m sure.

In terms of nature it seemed Aksu was lured off dry land and into the sea. Chunky crocheted sweaters and hoods imitated fishing nets, wide leather belts as oars… There was also a lighter side as chiffons looked to be windblown, and other delicate fabrics draped the body as opposed to constricting it. A taupe coloured pantsuit had folds and flaps along the front looking like wind sails … Needless to say his references were clear and his point of view was quiet strong. Unfortunately the hazard of such conciseness is the consequence of boredom. Using this type of colour scheme can easily make some garments look frumpy and more like the fisherman’s grandmother instead of the attractive wife. Regardless I’m sure the couple lived happily ever after.

MARQUITA HARRIS

Showstudio’s Penny Martin has a camera phone that is getting the only work out during fashion week. See the final walk through of Marc Jacobs’ show here.

Our on the street coverage of the fashion week events end, but our observations, looks and insights continue for the next couple of days. What wowed the reviewers? What had us looking for the nearest exit? What trends can we expect for the fall? Stay here all this week for more and upcoming looks at the big shows Milan and Paris.

-Eva