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In comparison to Marios Schwab’s previous fall collection he seemed to have opened up more. His collection, although more subdued than previous, worked. To be completely honest I was first on the fence while watching the show. Afterwards as I mentally replayed it, I realized there were some cool moments.

Soft shades of red, yellow, lavender and gold eased their way into bluntly cut dresses. Soft fabrics eased the hard lines of the silhouette. He also presented a feminine version of the ubiquitous Michelin man tire-esque puffer jacket (yes they are here in London too, folks). Who knew that all it took was slight deflation, a cinched waist and a point of view? This season remained full of the geometric touches that Schwab has mastered along with across the shoulder draping. Hexagons also made interesting appearances in quilted skirts and coats as well. A common reoccurring theme of body armour (see Christopher Kane) also appeared. I wasn’t too fond of some of the boxy shapes for some of the dresses. Maybe it’s just me, but “boxy has never been my thing. Who knows maybe I’m just old fashioned.

MARQUITA HARRIS

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Mustard yellow, midnight blue and eggshell were just the tip of Eley Kishimoto’s colourful iceberg. Japanese-inspired detailing such as
short obi-belts attached at the front of shift dresses in lustrous fabrics set the mood. An above the knee cream shift dress, accented with a simple obi-type belt in matching satin, was absolutely beautiful. A soft canary yellow sweater with quarter-length sleeves (and fabric covered buttons, which by the way, are underrated) was nice and easy. Not to mention (you might not see this in the photos) detail did not stop at the front. It also proceeded onto the back with rectangular flaps of fabric hanging in a modern take on the obi-bow.

In comparison to Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto’s collection from last winter, this collection is definitely different. Although the pieces still possess an element of fantasy, the collection is a bit more grown up. The prints are more intricate than loud and the tailoring is broader at the waist. Legwarmers paired with intense evening coats and above the knee dresses, were also a nice touch. The design duo also displayed their talent for simplicity. Prints with circles, birds and stars brought life to the basic cuts of dresses and tops. A plaid, bishop sleeved dress tied at the waste was another memorable item. Overall, I must say I enjoyed this collection. It was easy to follow, it wasn’t overeager and anyone who can make the stars & large flying birds into chic prints (without looking like pyjamas or grandma’s linens) has my vote.

MARQUITA HARRIS

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Sometimes the best action at a fashion show happens backstage. Papierdoll photographer Anne-Marie Michel went backstage at the Basso and Brooke show to see exactly what happens right before the show.

Stay tuned all this weekend for more photos and reviews from London fashion week.

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Packed to capacity, Basso and Brooke is one of the most highly anticipated shows of London Fashion Week ’07. Front row attendance had the crème de la crème of fashion, Hamish Bowles, Colin McDowell, and Hilary Alexander .

Collection colors comprised of grey, black, cream, gold, and green. Over the top Stephen Jones millinery (large hats in plastic, graphic prints, “air’ like) adorned several models and tend to distract at times from the actual ensemble it was paired with. The collection was filled with various dresses of Greek interpretation in a plethora of multi-color prints and they all were consistent with an ethereal aesthetic that looked as if each model was floating down the runway, as oppose to trotting (i.e. model walk).

Stand out ensembles: Greek symbolic graphic print mini silk dress; the multi-color graphic print bubble hem, swing coat; black knitted tunic with sequin, bell cuff sleeves over a black bubble hem skirt; metallic bronze and black shift dress in horizontal graphic print; watercolor, sheer grey mini dress, tied at the hem with front pockets; cream/blue tones, strapless gown with grandioso white hat white; and metallic bronze pleated mini dress with art deco graphic print embellished upon the black sheer, pleated neckline.

Keep in the closets: Sheer black, button front, mini dress, with bronze print around the hemline, waistline, wrist openings, and ‘clown’ neckline; swirl sheet black turtleneck paired with gold bubble hem silk skirt; and gold horse printed cape with ‘Keebler’ elf hat.

After witnessing the show, I couldn’t help but notice a maturity within the collection. I liked it. From the reaction of the audience, they liked it too. Appearing more structured, but keeping with their signature use of an array of colors, the collection still was Basso and Brooke…and that is all we can ask of Bruno and Christopher. Cheers!

TENISHA ANDERSON

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Amanda Wakeley’s Autumn/Winter ’07 collection was FIERCE! Now this is a word I seldom use because (1) Ms. Tyra Banks has used the hell out of this word; (2) it is so fashion cliché to describe anything in this industry as “fierce”; and (3) did I mention that Tyra Banks has used this word so much I don’t think it has the same meaning anymore. However, just looking at Ms. Wakeley’s collection revived the word and put it all back in context.

Sleek tailoring and simple/sharp details in this collection provides the true definition of ready-to-wear, a term that many designers seem to forget during these fashion weeks. Colors complimented in an array of neutral tones – black, cream, sand, navy. Collection consisted of pieces that no woman’s wardrobe should be without this autumn/winter season – sleek tailored coats and jackets, black leggings alone and under turtleneck minis as hosiery, dresses (wrapped and jumper style), floor length gowns that draped beautifully, and leather pieces.

Standouts: dark navy leather coat trimmed in fur around collar and wrists, with black leather belt; black, belted sweater jumper over turtleneck and leggings; light sand colored leather jacket and leather black belt; cream coat with high neck and shapeless bodice; tie-dye sand, black and cream silk floor length dress with leather black belt; and stripped fur, elbow sleeve bolero over belted, black turtleneck mini and leggings.

Keep in the closets: As bias as this reads…nothing. This whole collection could easily be worn over and over again, but of course a purveyor of style wouldn’t be caught dead doing such a thing.

As London Fashion Week comes closer to its end, I’m always glad to observe collections that understand that fashion isn’t always about the grandeur element in showing, but in presenting beautifully tailored and realistic wears for the consumer. The consumer, the individual that some designers tend to forget about. Thank you Amanda Wakeley for not conforming to the norm.

TENISHA ANDERSON