Click photo above for full gallery

Obviously I’m not forward enough, or avant-garde enough to quite understand what Richard Nicoll was trying to say during the showing of his Autumn/Winter ’07 collection at London Fashion Week. Nicoll’s collection seemed just as confusing to interpret, as it seems to wear, with fringe, pleats, shirt dresses, beading, and Napoleonic-shoulder pads all mixed into various outfits at one time.

Neutral colors were the staple for this collection, with grey, black, cream, and beige seen throughout. Hot pink and orange, however, did make appearances in the accessories (tassled necklaces and skinny belts). Canvas and wool felt baseball-inspired caps adorned the heads of a few models. Shirtdresses with huge studded buttons and studded collars or studded-bra outlining the shirt, gave the look of an eager teenager getting hold of their father’s work shirt, a Bedazzler, and angst. All wasn’t lost, a particular favourite, a grey and black stripe V-neck sweater was practically the only realistic piece seen.

All in all, Mr. Nicoll turned out to be Mr. Ni-COLD in his execution of ‘whatever’ he was trying to accomplish during London Fashion Week. I can only hope that next season the art of ‘mixing it up’ will not be taking so seriously.

TENISHA ANDERSON

Click photo above for full gallery

As this is the third show Peter Ingwersen of Noir has shown in LFW, I figured the man to have hit his stride. But unfortunately it seemed that Noir had an obscure focus. Though well known for its laid back rock-chic style, Noir lacked the cohesiveness, seen in previous collections. Cropped jodhpurs in sheen fabrics detailed with rhinestone-like diamante, climbing up the leg, were well…a bit much. Then came the metallic pants, coats with belted waist (which have grown tiresome), sheer tops, cropped fur vests… and so forth.

In the past Ingwersen has shown a great deal of confidence in design. This season, I can’t figure out whether he lost that confidence or was bitten by the ‘overeager’ bug, and caught a case of ‘too many ideas”. Either way, the show went from ladies who lunch to women with weapons, as pretty lace and military-inspired ensembles fought against each other. Then just when one thought the battle turned to a truce Lily Cole appears in a sweeping gold lame gown and plunging neckline, which came from left field. The dress seemed to come straight off of Michelle Pfeiffer’s svelte body in the movie Scarface. Great dress, bad timing.

There were a few highlights: crisp oxford shirts, cream coats with wide lapels, leather evening coats cut to the highest degree and a solid colour scheme. But as a whole it was just too unfocused at this stage in the label’s lifeline.

MARQUITA HARRIS

Click photo above for full gallery

Do you Duro? After reviewing this collection you definitely should. Trying to remain unbiased in writing this review (I’m a sucker for African print textile), Mr. Olowu presented a collection that was pure confidence.

Starting the show with pieces inspired from his African roots (Nigerian born) and mixing it with 1970s inspired silhouettes, proved to be an interesting combination of what I observed as being ‘A bit of Africa in the office’. A-line and full silouhettes, peter pan collars were seen on coats. A particular favorite of mine was the two-tone (dark chocolate/milk chocolate) jersey dress with the “secretary” bow in a multitude of color palettes (orange, green, purple, tied at the collar, with semi-billowy sleeves. Beautiful shift dresses displayed fascinating print textile usage. Duro’s textile print selection (silk t-shirt dresses) in blue, green, and red hearts proved fun, yet chic. Jackets and coats in sculpted from African prints in an array of colors from grass green, lavender, brown, all deemed the collection a ‘classic’.

The accessories that adorned some outfits were just as engaging, long black beading and silver emblems, and African print head wraps. Suited jacket and Wide-leg trousers with a colourful printed dress draped over was a sleek take on the ‘grunge’ look. Interesting red stitching detail a background of brown velvet uplifted the skirts from being just a plain piece amongst stars in this collection. Gorgeous taffeta black ball gown threw in some elegance to break up the monotony of the collection being playful.

Mr. Olowu’s show ended showing two dresses of bright colors, displaying his Caribbean character (his mother is Jamaican). I usually can tell within in the first 5 pieces of a collection if it is worth mentioning or not. Within Duro’s collection, I was able to tell in 3. Enough said.

TENISHA ANDERSON

Click photo above for full gallery

I’m going to be honest. I wasn’t too fond of Paul Costelloe’s Spring/Summer ’07 collection, thus I had a preconceived notion that this one was going to disappoint just as much. Wrong! I was surprised to the fullest with Paul’s ode to Paris in the 1960s. Mr. Costelloe was dead on in capturing a time, through clothes, that’s been slightly forgotten, but now remembered. Models strolled the catwalk in A-line shift dresses, skirt suits with box jackets, and double breasted coats, painted in a combination of muted and punchy tones – red, olive green, hot pink, grey, and cream.

A particular favorite was the wool A-line, hot pink, double-breasted coat with black trimming the collar and pockets. Shift dresses, in particular, possessed a “sweetness” for daytime wear, but keep enough sophistication to transform into chic-sexiness with the right accessories or outerwear. Costelloe’s collection achieved this with minimal, yet transforming, details of metallic brocade and leopard print outlining necklines and pockets on various pieces. The collection was consistent and executed very well, which could make a lady feel pretty….oh so pretty!

TENISHA ANDERSON

Click photo above for full gallery

Ben De Lisi was a show of highs and lows. He experimented a great deal with textures, not straying far from a palette of metallic gold (oh so much gold), fuchsia and malachite. Many watchful eyes took a double glimpse at a gold leopard print dress. This was a low. His collection was equipped with stand-alone’s such as a matte jersey dress with long ruched sleeves in a muted purple. His signature long dresses were also in full effect, dominated by foiled lace, sequined tulle and in a range of necklines and colours. Belted coats and ballooned hems also made appearances. The make-up was quite simple with a ruby stained lip and the hair pulled plainly off the face and placed into a long braided bun at the back. “…Think of one-thousand Chinese lanterns illuminating the
blackest of nights,” he says of the collection. It was more like one thousand ideas rolled into 15 minutes. Overall many of De Lisi’s pieces would have looked great on their own, but too much metallic gold, foiled lace and chiffon (for one look mind you) makes for bad interpretation.

MARQUITA HARRIS