As you may or may not know, here at Papierdoll, we’re big fans of insanity. I don’t care what genre or clique you’re from, if you can make me think you’re mad, you’re OK in my book. Giles Deacon has gone mad. And we’re loving every second of it.

Deacon has become a fashion darling in the past couple of years, even getting an ode in a House of Holland t-shirt that reads, “Get Your Freak On Giles Deacon.” He’s young, he’s witty and he can design the hell out of a dress, so it was just a matter of time before he sent a piece of his true self out onto the catwalk.

Hemlines were here, there, and everywhere and the only thing consistent was the fact that each look was tad more outlandish than the former. Want dresses that look like they’re made of rubber and mercury? Check. How about a scarf that resembles a python about to choke you to death? Yep, he had that too. But for every loony something or another that Deacon created, there was a precious little dress to do his creativity justice. The color palette was all over the place, but the show was so well styled that you hardly notice it. Ranging from lavendar and brown to neon green and dark plum, Deacon harvested color in conjunction with the designs, leading them to their full potential. Because let’s face it: it’s one thing to make a gorgeous black dress. It’s completely different to make a gorgeous black and white graphic print gown that looks like something the bride of Beetlejuice would wear. That takes talent.

Overall the collection was strong, and while it probaly struck a funky chord for some, we’re eagerly awaiting the Giles show for seasons to come. And who said fashion was dead?

SAMANTHA CABRERA

I remember first seeing a write-up of Andrew Gn in WWD a few years ago and thinking, “Damn…he sure knows how to make a dress that a girl wants to wear.” And it seems this is still Gn’s niche.

Known for extravagant dresses and gowns that all of Europe’s in-the-know clamor to wear, Gn struck it rich at this F/W 2007 show with luxurious fabrics and rich shades of color. In a turning twist of events, it seems that black is the new shade for day, but if you’re living it up into the wee hours of the morning, you want to make a statement in color. Gn went for embellished everything, from collars and hemlines, to blouses and footwear. It was a collection that screamed decadence in the most youthful and down-to-earth way.

Gold seemed to be Gn’s color of choice and rightfully so. It, against textured and embellished black, was a winning combination, and trimmed everything in a new-old-fashioned manner. Looks were contained without being boring. Most appealing was Gn’s skirts which could go from office to cocktail with a change of shoes. Rich tones of blue, chocolate and olive rounded out a collection that took the darkness trend to a new level due to play on fun materials. Coats were made for show, not warmth, but portrayed a low-key cool factor not often found in European designers who experiment with such ornate extras.

From the looks of things, we’re all for the bling factor, as long as it’s Andrew Gn making the rules.

SAMANTHA CABRERA

It’s not every day that a living fashion legend emerges with her very own collection, and so it’s no wonder that the heavy hitters were out and about for Sophia Kokosalaki’s F/W 2007 show. And could you really blame them? The buzz surrounding her in recent years rivals that of the Anna Nicole Smith funeral (which we clearly chose to remind you of, once again).

Of course there was black, there were opaque tights and there was ever-present trench coat on the runway, but what worked most in Kokosalaki’s favor is that what she displayed embodied a true collection. A group of looks that played off of eachother without playing into one another. Often it seems designers look at collections as the chance to show us the same skirt in three colors with slightly different hemlines. Not Kokosalaki. The collection was gorgeous as whole, or in seperates revealing the way real women shop. From over-the-top outerwear to chic and simple trousers, she proved that there is room for both within the same collection and season.

Standout looks included high-waist skirts, billowing sleeves and that delicious shag carpet black coat that would make a Muppet jealous (we mean this is the most positive way). Closing the show with a sample of festive evening frocks, Kokosalaki proved that regardless of who she’s working for or with, she’s a permanent innovative fixture in the fashion community.

SAMANTHA CABRERA

From Jason Wu’s Spring 2007 runway show. More photos from our Spring series coming soon. Click here for more.
photography Danielle Le Moine

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