04th Apr 2007
The Cheeriness of Spring
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Looking back at this past September’s Spring 07 fashion week collections, I noticed an interesting trend. A few rebellious designers decided to remove pastellish happiness, fabric and “springy” colors from their lines and let the dark colors fall wherever they wanted. While nothing new, there was a trendshift of sorts. I singled out some notables (notables because they were my favorite) that went dark for the season:
Ann Demeulemeester
Went with a variety of cutaway jackets for the season but even more noticeable was the usage of grey and black everywhere. A black vest over a sheer top, a skinny fluted pant, the dark, long slim skirt that trailed everywhere. It’s not like Demeulemeester hasn’t done a darker collection before, but in recent memory I’ve never seen so much black…and liked it. Photos
Vena Cava
Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai went black and did so unapologetically. While there were pastels and some bright colors interspersed here and there, overall the darkness was more than noticeable; it made the line. A deconstructed seam gown, black skinny pants paired with a sleevless top, and a dark spaghetti strap dress with emroidery at the top were all strong pieces in the line. Not a “springy” color in sight. Photos
Erdem
Another dark collection for the season of renewal. Erdem’s collection consisted of several black and white stripe pieces including a strapless dress, fitted mini-skirt and a short-sleeve round collar dress. He used flowery prints against a dark backdrop to round out the bulk of his line. Innovative, not quite, rebellious? Most definitely. Photos
If these design directions are any indication, there’s beauty in gloom and why not?
Posted by Eva @ 8:04 am
April 4th, 2007 at 9:33 am
I liked the Vena Cava layout, you could literally walk around and see all the designs, once twice or more. Marc Jacobs show from fall was also really good for that, you could see the designs then see them walk down the runway at the same time.
April 4th, 2007 at 9:42 am
I’m not so sure about going with the whole “dark” theme for Spring. Once the weather warms up practically is wouldn’t make sense. But If the fabric is light enough then there’s well established reason as to why it would work.
April 4th, 2007 at 11:18 am
Eva you take a bit of a license to say that these designers are rebellious for doing dark colours for spring. Yamamoto is a designer known for doing it up in dark way.
April 4th, 2007 at 4:51 pm
that pic from the Erden spring collection is really cute. And i think I have also seen the trend you’re talking about. Its funny though because that design you put up may be mostly black but its very spring and flowy. it think i’ll check out this designer sometime.
April 5th, 2007 at 3:11 pm
i like black and all… but remember the days when wearing black was considered severe? now, it’s like, babies can rock the all black look, and mostly everyone considers black to be a safe color. frankly, i’m sick of it.
; )
springy colors? bring it.
April 5th, 2007 at 3:27 pm
Definitely remember when black was severe. Like you had no personality and that’s why you put the black on. I think these designers actually twisted the black look and made it very cool.
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