When Milan fashion week opened last Thursday many in the media did not know what to expect. It’s not that the Italian designers like to throw everyone for a loop just for fun. It’s just that by and large, the designers are fickle and can be influenced by nearly anything. So when Frida Giannini debuted Gucci’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection she apparently knew (and this is just supposition) that overtly sexy dress was out and a more subtle titillation was due this season. By displaying prints that had a myriad of swirls, turns and curls, belted tunics that were not quite shirt but also couldn’t fall into your garden variety tops. Then there were silk organza dresses long in form that belied what would normally be taken as a stodgy dress, far from, it was sexy because the movement of the fabric mirrored the form underneath.
This was no ordinary Gucci show. This was Giannini showing us that she knew something that we didn’t: for this collection at least, sexy wasn’t a decade, wasn’t a concept, wasn’t even overt. It was and is an overall aesthetic.