Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2013 Collection | Paris
Written By Karen Ehrenström, on September 28, 2012
Ever since Gareth Pugh left London’s Fashion Week scene, London has not been the same. Yes there are still the vagaries of the London scene like a Charlie Le Mindu or just something completely off beat. But with Pugh in London, you could always expect the unknown. He’s brought that to Paris, just by turning it up a notch, or two, or three. Eric Wilson of the New York Times stated that watching Pugh’s collection over six years is like “watching a “True Blood” marathon. A vampire’s lust for the goth aesthetic is a given in Mr. Pugh’s eternally watchable world of cobweb skirts and leather dusters.”
Sure, that’s one takeaway. But here’s another: look past the brooding makeup and the goth pageantry and you’ll find a beautiful aesthetic with an edge. It’s to the left and deservedly so. Pugh put together for this season a series of gowns that provided the true futuristic heir to 15th century looks. If you could imagine time-warping from 15th century Spain into this century and ignore all the fashion turns in-between, that’s exactly what I saw and imagined. Pugh flirted with flaring at the waist, but brought it back in with a rigid discipline. There was a gypsy like quality to it. This was not London Gareth Pugh, this was Paris Gareth Pugh and the sea that divides the two has never been wider.