Rooney Mara This Month’s VogueJanuary 21, 2013
Known for playing gripping, dark roles, Rooney Mara was shot in this month’s Vogue with the exact ethos in mind. Shot in an almost haunting foreboding style, David Sims captures Mara as a strong enigmatic subject. The shoot features items from the collections of Alexander Wang, Helmut Lang and Calvin Klein with production by Art House.Karen Ehrenström
Most Popular Vogue Model of 2012January 3, 2013
The New York Daily News published a list of the top Vogue models of 2012. Not many surprises here as they selected models we’ve seen in Vogue this past year and in previous years. Some of the faces include Karlie Kloss, Arizona Muse, Toni Garrn, Kati Nescher, Isabeli Fontana and Joan Smalls. You can see the full list by clicking here. Spoiler note: Karlie Kloss was named most popular Vogue model of 2012.Karen Ehrenström
How’d JC Penney Get Duro Olowu?October 24, 2012
We’re featuring Duro Olowu later on this week on the magazine side of Papierdoll, but I received this e-mail today and read it in it’s entirety about twice. The first thing I thought to myself was, self, someone at JC Penney sold their sold to the devil to get Olowu. Anne-Marie our lead photog in London, will attest that this is a coup as his footprint overseas is much larger than his presence here. But that in itself might be the answer, expose Duro’s collection to an American audience via JC Penney, a trojan horse diffusion line of sorts.
Here’s an excerpt from the release:
The exclusive collection, Duro Olowu for jcp, features apparel and accessories for women, as well as home goods, including dinnerware, stationery and décor items. Ranging in price from $10 to $100, Duro Olowu for jcp will be available this spring from March through May 2013 at most jcpenney stores and jcp.com.
“I am proud to partner with jcpenney to create and launch this new seasonal collection,” said designer Duro Olowu. “Working with jcpenney has allowed me to merge my vision of style and quality with their affordability, resulting in a line that is stylish, beautifully made and accessible. It has been an exciting experience to bring this fashion and home collection to life.Karen Ehrenström
Ann Demeulemeester Spring/Summer 2013 – ParisSeptember 28, 2012
If while looking through the photos of Ann Demeulemeester’s collection you’re reminded of Flash Gordon or your conjuring up images of Ming the Merciless, you’re not far off. Obscure references to 1980 film’s aside, Ann Demeulmeester’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection is voluminous in parts of outfits that are usually spare, and spare in parts of outfits that are usually voluminous. An example are the near floor-length sleeves that consisted primarily of wispy, light, airy fabric but were in excess, because…they were near the floor. Under normal circumstances this would seem bulky and impossible to pull off, but this is Ann Demeulemeester and in keeping with the Ann Demeulmeester aesthetic, this comes off effortlessly. Even more from the collection shimmery calf-length pants, voluminous gowns that mimicked 2012 future outfits that were imagined in 1980, hence the Flash Gordon reference.
I will say this, Anne Demeulemeester’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection is one of my favorites of the fashion week season because the collection looks as impossible to wear in person as it does in photos (floor length sleeves), but it *is* possible, and easy at that. Pulling this off, is no simple feat. It’s genius.Karen Ehrenström
Anne Valerie Hash Spring/Summer 2013 Collection ParisSeptember 28, 2012
No she’s not simply a bridal designer anymore. Hasn’t been “just that” for years. And maybe she never was just that to be perfectly honest. Anne Valerie Hash’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection is simply stated a otherworldly spiritual adventure outside of the body. Hash’s collection featured sharp lines at the beginning with straight edge cuts at the shoulders, a jacket with a beautifully soft floral print on the lapels contrasted again with the sharp lines and satin, did I mention satin. The fabric was everywhere and played as the foil to that ethereal fairy-like theme. Because while many of the pieces from the collection included chiffon and featured a playful-like demeanor, the satin, and the lines were serious. Hash’s Spring/Summer 2013 collection seems to be one big contradiction, which in itself is more than fine, it’s good.Karen Ehrenström
Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2013 Collection | ParisSeptember 28, 2012
Ever since Gareth Pugh left London’s Fashion Week scene, London has not been the same. Yes there are still the vagaries of the London scene like a Charlie Le Mindu or just something completely off beat. But with Pugh in London, you could always expect the unknown. He’s brought that to Paris, just by turning it up a notch, or two, or three. Eric Wilson of the New York Times stated that watching Pugh’s collection over six years is like “watching a “True Blood” marathon. A vampire’s lust for the goth aesthetic is a given in Mr. Pugh’s eternally watchable world of cobweb skirts and leather dusters.”
Sure, that’s one takeaway. But here’s another: look past the brooding makeup and the goth pageantry and you’ll find a beautiful aesthetic with an edge. It’s to the left and deservedly so. Pugh put together for this season a series of gowns that provided the true futuristic heir to 15th century looks. If you could imagine time-warping from 15th century Spain into this century and ignore all the fashion turns in-between, that’s exactly what I saw and imagined. Pugh flirted with flaring at the waist, but brought it back in with a rigid discipline. There was a gypsy like quality to it. This was not London Gareth Pugh, this was Paris Gareth Pugh and the sea that divides the two has never been wider.Karen Ehrenström
Keira Knightley in October’s American VogueSeptember 17, 2012
Mario Testino shows why he’s at or near the top of the photography mountain with his Keira Knightley spread for American Vogue. Great shots of Keira Knightley in haute couture (which shows there’s always a use).
See the full article here. October issue should be hitting newsstands by the time you get to the end of this sentence.
Pencey Backstage | New York Fashion Week Spring 2013 CollectionsSeptember 8, 2012
Ever wonder what it takes to put a fashion show together with a small line encompassing a varied aesthetic? That was designer Christina Minasian’s collection. Established in 2007, Pencey visually is a cross between hipster chic, casual lux with a smattering of contemporary, the designer is showing a bit of range this season. See the full review posted in Papierdoll’s fashion week section. See below for the backstage images.
Monika Chiang Dazzles at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New YorkSeptember 7, 2012
If you want to see know how to keep it simple, while providing a varied collection for Spring 2013. Monika Chiang’s collection for Spring 2013 is the epitome of that thought process. By providing a mixture of prints, airy pleated pants, a sharp cut leather jacket and top, Chiang went beyond the traditional runway show for a presentation that was strong enough because of the range. There are parts of this collection that are so creative, you will want something, anything from this designer.Karen Ehrenström
The Michael Angel EffectAugust 30, 2012
It’s hard to miss designer Michael Angel’s Fall 2012 collection. Filled with strong forceful prints, even more rigid lines, a mastery of color selection and an attention to detail nearly unparalleled in fashion. We saw this in the Spring 2012 collection and this is more so the case in the Fall 2012 collection. An evolution of sorts, Michael Angel went from sirens-loud in Spring, to muted attention-getting in the Fall. Every color, every detail is intelligently placed with rhyme and reason outlined but not overstated.
You know why the jacket below is cut just above the waist, it works well and is effortless on the female form. It’s exacting to the millimeter.
The trousers provide just enough room to be loose in the right place (just above the knee and straight through the calf) without being outlandishly big.
The shoulder-less dress is sexy just enough, but also serious. It’s adult without being boring.
There’s anticipation for a Spring 2013 collection and the hope is it continues this designer’s evolution. What’s next is unpredictable, but more than welcome.Karen Ehrenström