Emilio Pucci

With news of Christian Lacroix leaving Pucci, this show took on a special meaning. The pieces were the normal colorful Pucci fair. With a respectful nod to the 60s, models sauntered out on the runway in violet patterns of serpentined intermixed with blue and purple all in an arc-like form. These pieces on display really demonstrated vivid use of oceanic colors. Swimsuits that clung on in perfect fashion adorned the models. You knew genius was at work here. Bravo Christian Lacroix and good luck!

Prada, romance on display

No one does a show quite like Prada; it was different, it was romantic, it was nostalgic. Every piece was well crafted and could literally fit on a variety of sizes. The whitewashed gabardine tunic dresses would work on the typical mid-twenty year old fashionista in New York LA and everywhere in between. My favorite shoe on display at the show was this bamboo wedge: two bamboo sticks in differing lengths placed parallel, one behind the other create a lovely heel that screams buy us, buy us now.

In a move that is sure to make PETA organize and protest, models wheeled out white crocodile bags (that’s right girls, roll along luggage) and oversized vanity cases in canvas with cyclamen trims.

It was a throwback to the Prada heyday. Love, life, femininity all purposely on display. Emilio Pucci is up next.

Armani, D&G, Ferragamo oh my!

The Italians sure know how to put on a show. Milan fashion week designs are coming back to the states at a furious pace and I am in love. Feminity is on display. Lots of it. In heaping spoonfuls.

Armani
No more androgenous models that kept you guessing as to their sex. Armani went pure feminine. The outlandish head attire, the fugly make-up, all went out the window. Armani turned up the notch by going elaborate but sexy, while accentuating a lighter spring. A mix of colors were on display. You had the saccharin pastels, classic blacks and a variety of florals sauntering down the runway. The waif thin models wore rounded jackets that fit snuggly, stacked peep-toe heels, white-stripped blazers. There was a good amount of satin on display. I’m in love.

Ferragamo
Somebody must have given Mr. Black the memo. The house of Ferragamo woke up and gave us a glimpse of their interpretation of spring. It’s about looking professional while maintaining femininity. There were no trends at the show. It was about fashion that could withstand decades. Really. The real standout was a full length knit gown. There were others like the open-work camisole all dressed up in lace, a knit dress and several flowing skirts. Solids were definitely on display, deep reds, bright whites and not very many spring pastels.

D&G
This show took place in a warehouse near the airport. It was as if the designers were seeking to make up lost time in terms of white. The show had very little color and was a veritable winter wonderland. That is definitely not a bad thing. Especially taking into account the designs at play. It made the focus more on the design and less on the usage of colors. Sure, pastels showed up, but it was mainly about white. White with lace, white with cotton, and white with chiffon all wrapped up in a neat package. There was something Victorian about the show.

The 3 shows demonstrated that the Italians were in a different place when compared to their American and English counterparts.

LFW: The Wrapup

So I was a little late with the wrapup. I really wasn’t sure what to write. That’s basically the general feeling behind London fashion week. Yes there were a lot of shows I said that I liked. There were hits and misses (more the latter than the former). London Fashion week seemed really to be fashion week NYC part deux. I will be looking in earnest to Milan and hoping the results are not the same.

Best Show: Paul Smith
In my opinion, the best show was the show I didn’t attend. That is my luck. I saw the pictures coming out from the show, and unless something is completely and totally off in translation between seeing it live and seeing the pictures, Paul Smith did it for me.

Worst Show: Betty Jackson
I will catch flack. But I just didn’t like this show. I didn’t get the direction. I didn’t like the designs, they seemed like a retread. It was as if the designs were put together from composite parts of spring shows gone by. I wanted to get the time wasted here back. Where’s Marty McFly and his Delorean when you need it?

Honorable Mention: Eley Kishimoto
I liked the designs. The colors were vivid, vibrant and the designs were different. Yes there were some weird, funky pieces, but that’s what makes fashion, fashion. Someone get Richie Rich and Traver Rains on the phone. Unconventional works well when done correctly and Kishimoto did it perfectly.

Overall, it’s not that London fashion week was bad per se’, it’s that the innovation, the creativity seemed to be toned down. Can’t wait for the fall show. If i’m invited…

Taina Stewart

LFW: Paul Smith

I didn’t attend this show, but from the photos coming out, I really like the direction. Paul Smith, it seems by tradition has always understood what makes a woman sexy. It’s the lines, the ability to show without giving it all away. A lot designers revel in showing what you may not want to show. This collection, plunging necklines and all, seemed to keep all the body parts where they needed to be, yet at the same time maintained a sexiness not found in other lines. It’s the difference between being overt and understated. Other items in the collections seemed playful yet grown up. The English influence is definitely there. I didn’t get the feeling of the vibrant pastellish spring that has been making the rounds this week, but that’s not a bad thing . For the most part the colors were subduded which drew attention more to the actual design at play. I’m somewhat upset that I didn’t go to this show as it probably would have been my favorite.

My wrap-up comes later tonight.

Taina Stewart