Written By , on July 8, 2009

It may be early yet, as 2009 is barely half over, but as we experience the Couture 09 shows I can’t help but wonder how this decade of fashion will come to be described.  When I was a young miss in the nineties what people wore seemed so “normal” (i.e. minimalism, thank you Mr. Klein) that I didn’t think you could characterize it.

rick-owens-gray2It’s clear that throughout the nineties and into the millennium designers have been faithfully “reinventing” looks from the past.  We can easily say what silhouette is from which decade.  We know that a peep toe platform is reminiscent of the forties, neon colors remind us of the eighties, and a high waisted wide leg pant calls to mind the seventies.

As for the nineties, there are several looks that came about. Grunge, a spillover from eighties prep, whatever was going on with the original 90210 cast…etc.  I think as time marches forward and individualism becomes more celebrated one defining look ceases to describe a decade of fashion.  That isn’t to say, of course, that trends don’t still come and go.  There may just be more of them that come and go more quickly.

We have now the first decade of the millennium coming to a close.  Who were the innovators? What trends will we look back on?  I’m actually more interested to hear the opinion of others, rather than exposit my own.  But I’ll leave this off with some food for thought.  Innovators in silhouette: Christophe Decarnin for Balmain, Alber Ebaz for Lanvin, and Kate and Laura Mulleavy for Rodarte.  New guys for the cool crowd: Derek Lam, Phillip Lim, and Alexander Wang.  But when you are talking about cool, and by which I mean deconstructed and aged, you must include a Rick Owens jacket.  As for us plebeians and the trends on the street, skinnies, leggings, tunics, and gladiator sandals – whether we want to admit it or not.


Written By , on July 9, 2008

Fashion Djss

What a supreme idea. Take some of the top fashion djs (yes they exist), put them together in a room take top designers in London and have a 3 day show. Then, to add to the hoopla, make it live on your website. That’s ShowStudio.com premise for Fashion DJs live. This is a 3 day spectacle filled with top music, fun and eye catching fashions. Visit the site now as it’s going on at Showstudio.com


Written By , on July 8, 2008

photography Kieffer
photography Kieffer

From the School of the Art Institute of Chicago (SAIC) Fashion 2008 show.


Written By , on June 26, 2008

Wedges

The Times Online today looks at what is becoming a troubling fashion trend (at least to me). There seems to be this growing need to make male fashions feminine. Coming straight from the runways of Milan and into the stores sometime this fall are wedges…for men. While some men may marvel at the thought of suddenly becoming taller, there’s a serious question of how womanly do you want your masculine man to look? At the Papierdoll fashion week event in February there were several men wearing male versions of pumps. Yes, there are male versions of pumps. The manly men that chose to wore manly shoes, looked at their pump wearing counterparts as if they were some sort of freakshow attraction.

The point is, maybe there is something to this whole wedges for men, but there may be a point where guys say enough already with the emasculation of our species. We won’t wear wedges that look like they came from the Wizard of Oz.


Written By , on June 24, 2008

Fashion Buyer

God Bless the Wall Street Journal for highlighting my next new job if this blogging thing turns out to be some sort of fad. Alina Dizik has an article today in the Wall Street Journal looking at a job that will have most women who shop swooning. Imagine getting a therapeutic massage everyday. That’s the great news about being a buyer, but a fellow Papierdoller who used to be a buyer tells me the downsides as well. Not everything is roses when you have to function as a person responsible for the direct success of a company. For example let’s say you are a buyer at store X and you end up buying what you think is going to be the next big thing in fashion (sneakers with heels for instance). Let’s say that the idea gets no traction, you may end up costing the company millions of dollars. It’s a crude but effective example of the pitfalls. Still, Dizik’s article points out some great perks of being a buyer:

1. Shopping (a lot of your job is taken up in this department)
2. Traveling (sometimes you have to go to where the designers are )
3. High Salary ( the better you are, the more you make)
4. Fashion Week (yes, you get to go and be treated like royalty, if you’re from a top store and even mid-size stores)

Be prepared for 10 hour plus days… being a buyer isn’t all glamor.

Read the article here.


Written By , on May 7, 2008

photography Mike Brown

photography Mike Brown
(taken at New York Fashion Week)


Written By , on May 6, 2008

photography Kevin kane

photography Kevin Kane
(taken at New York Fashion Week)